What do you see when you think of the word "surfer"? Whether you like it or not, your mind will formulate an image. Maybe it was a blonde-haired surfer talking about the shape of the waves or a tourist trying to learn how to surf, but you probably didn't picture anything to do with environmental conservation. Surfing isn't merely a sport or a fun hobby; it's more intricately woven with our love and connection to the ocean. It embodies not only the thrill of the waves but also the profound harmony between humans and nature. "Surfers have a unique connection with the ocean, and that connection comes with a responsibility to protect it. The surfing community can lead by example." recreational surfer Alec Walsh says, "I've always cared about protecting our environment, especially the ocean, but surfing has amplified that." Alec holds the same thoughts as many other surfers, and as we see the effects of human development, we know the surfing community takes action.
Indeed, the impact of climate change and rampant development on surf breaks has become increasingly apparent to surfers worldwide. Rising sea levels, fueled by melting polar ice caps, threaten to reshape coastlines and erode once-pristine surf spots. Changes in ocean currents and weather patterns result in unpredictable wave conditions, altering the essence of surfing experiences.
Some changes are out of surfers' direct control, but many other factors contribute to the loss of waves. Factors such as unchecked coastal development exacerbate these challenges as urbanization encroaches upon fragile coastal ecosystems. The construction of seawalls, jetties, and harbors disrupts natural sediment flow, leading to the degradation of surf breaks and the loss of critical habitats for marine life. Pollution from industrial activities and urban runoff further degrades water quality, posing health risks to surfers and marine organisms.
Popular surf spots hold a profound significance beyond their allure as playgrounds for wave enthusiasts. They stand as cultural touchstones, bustling economic centers, and pillars of communal identity. Drawing surfers from across the globe, these spots contribute to local economies through tourism and foster a deep sense of camaraderie among coastal communities. Surfing has erupted into a huge industry for private businesses and countries. The surfing equipment market is valued at 6.46M in 2024 and continues to grow while the waves bring money through tourism. A study was conducted in 2010 on the value of a wave focusing on the Mavericks region of Half Moon Bay, California, famous for surfing, whale watching, boating, and other recreational and ecotourism activities. In the end, the estimated total annual economic benefit from the Mavericks region was $23.8 million. With such large economic benefits coming from surfing, private businesses and governments are contributing to efforts to protect these surf spots.
In recent decades, the concept of 'wave reserves' has emerged as a means to safeguard cherished surf spots and as a vital strategy for preserving ecologically significant coastal areas. Originating with establishing the first wave reserve at Bells Beach, Australia, in 1973, surfers rallied to protect their beloved waves from detrimental human activities. However, in the early 2000s, the surfing community witnessed a surge in the creation of wave reserves across the globe.
As such, establishing wave reserves has evolved into a multifaceted endeavor, intertwining the conservation of prized surf locales with the imperative of safeguarding the delicate balance of coastal ecosystems.
A little over 30 miles from Stanford is the 4th world-surfing reserve. The Santa Cruz World Surfing Reserve lies on the northern shores of Monterey Bay, nestled within the safeguarded waters of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary along California's Central Coast.
Santa Cruz claims to be the first location of board surfing in North America. In 1885, three Hawaiian princes carved boards out of the local redwoods and demonstrated the sport. From that point on, surfing has been ingrained into the area's identity.
Santa Cruz is not just a surfing area though it is also known for being home to many Sea Otters, Seals, Sea Lions and varieties of sea birds, along with the occasional migratory whale and/or Great White Shark. Part of the marine protected area located within the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary Santa Cruz is home to an extremely diverse ecosystem.
One notable achievement for Save the Waves (The organization that looks over the world surf reserve) has been the turnaround of Cowell's Beach. For years, Cowells Beach was considered the dirtiest beach in California. It is located on the Top 10 on Heal The Beach's "Beach Bummer" list, which documents California's worst offenders of ocean bacterial pollution for a decade.
Cowell's Beach just so happens to be a very popular surfing spot, especially for beginners." That's where I first learned to surf," said Soren Larson, a Santa Cruz local who works closely with Save the Waves. That beach means a lot to me, and I just hope many more can experience how welcoming Cowells can be to beginners."
The designation of dirtiest did not sit well with the surfing community. "There were a couple of years in there that it was almost unsurfable; nobody wants to surf somewhere called the dirtiest beach in California," said Soren. "something had to be done,"
Save the Waves partnered with local stakeholders and the city to attack the problem. Through investigation, they found that the main reason for the contamination was birds resting in the area. After the implementation of nets restricting birds from landing and roosting, there was a large increase in water quality. Thanks to STW's collaborative efforts, Cowell Beach is expected to remain absent from the Beach Bummers list compiled by advocacy group Heal The Bay for the third consecutive year.
"We have a lot to celebrate," Soren asserts. "We may not be solving the big issues of marine conservation, but we are doing what we can. I don't think Cowell's is getting clean without our push."
The reserve in Santa Cruz is an example of many other reserves worldwide improving the area around them, from cleaning beaches in Santa Cruz to stopping a pipeline in Chile.
There is one thing to consider when it comes to surfing and conservation. While the physical act of surfing a natural wave has a minimal environmental impact, many surfing conservation supporters do not account for factors such as the carbon emissions from tourists' long-distance travel to get to the sites, the use of resources in making boards and petroleum-based wetsuits, or reef damage through certain sunblocks increased traffic.
Even though that is the case, there aren't many ways around them. Pressure from the surfing community to conserve these areas has the potential to catalyze a broader movement toward ocean conservation that can do more good. As surfers advocate for protecting their beloved waves, they inherently become stewards of the marine environments that support them.
This advocacy highlights the interconnectedness between popular surf spots and ocean ecosystems and underscores the role of grassroots activism in expanding conservation efforts to safeguard our seas for generations to come.
So, when you next conjure an image of a surfer, envision the silhouette against a sunset and the guardianship of our oceans that comes with the territory. As Alec Walsh aptly puts it, "Surfers have a unique connection with the ocean, and that connection comes with a responsibility to protect it." Their love for the waves transcends mere recreation; it's a call to action for environmental stewardship. From the ripple effects of climate change to the coastal developments reshaping our shores, surfers are not just riding the waves but leading the charge in their preservation. As the tides of change continue to wash over our world, the surfing community's commitment to conservation serves as a beacon of hope for our oceans.
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